Composition for Enhancing Hair Fiber Properties

ABSTRACT

Described herein is a hair care composition including from about 0.01% to about 20% of a lipid being one or more unsaturated fatty materials chosen from unsaturated fatty acids, unsaturated fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. The unsaturated fatty material has a Log P of less than 8. The hair care composition also includes from about 0.01% to about 10% of a fatty acid monoester of a polyol, a saturated fatty alcohol, an ester of a saturated fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof. The molecule of the fatty acid component of the fatty acid monoester includes a linear or a branched carbon chain with 10 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty acid monoester of a polyol has a log P of less than 8. The molecule of the fatty alcohol includes a linear or branched carbon chain with 8 to 22 carbon atoms. The hair care composition also includes a non-aqueous volatile solvent.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

Described herein are hair care compositions comprising one or morematerials useful for enhancing hair fiber properties.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

“Permanent” hair treatments, such as coloring, bleaching andstraightening/waving, as well as other environmental and consumer habits(UV light, thermal drying, brushing/combing) cause damaged hair invarious ways. Typically, hair damage also leads to the loss of naturalinternal lipids (as well as hair protein), which play an important rolein hair structure. For example, lipids hold the hair proteins togetheras part of the cuticle/cortex membrane. Thus, internal hair lipid lossis associated with reduced hair mechanical strength. Loss of lipids alsoleads to increased moisture uptake when the hair is exposed to highhumidity, leading to frizz. The present invention is directed to thedevelopment of compositions that can replenish internal lipids andrepair damaged hair fibers.

Consumers using compositions of this technology experience animprovement in hair health from penetration of these materials andblends, resulting in more softness and combability. Consumers' hairbecomes more structurally similar to emerging hair in terms of theinternal lipid content. Typical current commercial hair care productscontain surface benefit agents such as silicones and depositionpolymers, to aid in lowering the surface energy of hair to protectagainst mechanical damage from combing. However, the use of typicalcommercial products do not significantly prevent hair tip damage,because of damage of the internal hair structure likely caused from lossof hair lipids and proteins through washing, UV and coloring damage. Thepresent invention seeks to improve fiber properties by introducinglipids inside the hair fiber. Consequently, a need exists for a productthat replenishes internal hair lipids providing improved softness andcombability.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Described herein is, in an embodiment, a hair care compositioncomprising (a) from about 0.01% to about 20% of a lipid being one ormore unsaturated fatty materials, by weight of the hair carecomposition, selected from the group consisting of unsaturated fattyacids, unsaturated fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; wherein theunsaturated fatty material comprises a linear or branched carbon chainwith 8 to 24 carbon atoms and one carbon-carbon double bond betweenposition C3 and position omega for the unsaturated fatty acid andbetween position C2 and position omega for the unsaturated fattyalcohol; and wherein the unsaturated fatty material has a Log P of lessthan 8; (b) from about 0.01% to about 10%, of one or more lipidenhancing agents, by weight of the hair care composition, selected fromthe group consisting of (i) a fatty acid monoester of a polyol whereinthe molecule of the fatty acid component of the fatty acid monoestercomprises a linear or branched carbon chain with 10 to 22 carbon atomsand wherein the fatty acid monoester of a polyol has a Log P of lessthan 8; (ii) a saturated fatty alcohol wherein the molecule of the fattyalcohol comprises a linear or branched carbon chain with 8 to 22 carbonatoms; (iii) an ester of a saturated fatty alcohol wherein the moleculeof the ester comprises 10 to 44 total carbon atoms; and (iv) mixturesthereof; and (c) a non-aqueous volatile solvent.

Also described herein is, in an embodiment, a hair care compositioncomprising (a) from about 0.1% to about 5% oleic acid, by weight of thehair care composition; (b) from about 0.01% to about 5% glycerolmonooleate, by weight of the hair care composition; wherein the weightratio of oleic acid to glycerol monooleate is from about 1:1 to about10:1; (c) from about 10% to about 75% of ethanol, by weight of the haircare composition; and (d) from about 25% to about 70% of a compressedpropellant, by weight of the hair care composition.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 is a graph of an optimum blend ratio of lipid and lipid enhancingagent demonstrating a measure force (gf) to comb moderatelyoxidatively-damaged hair.

FIG. 2 is a graph of an optimum blend ratio of lipid and lipid enhancingagent demonstrating a measure force (gf) to comb physically damagedvirgin hair.

FIG. 3 is a graph of unsaturated lipid level versus amount of moistureuptake in hair.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION

All percentages and ratios used herein are by weight of the totalcomposition, unless otherwise designated. All measurements areunderstood to be made at ambient conditions, where “ambient conditions”means conditions at about 25° C., under about one atmosphere ofpressure, and at about 50% relative humidity (RH), unless otherwisedesignated. All numeric ranges are inclusive of narrower ranges;delineated upper and lower range limits are combinable to create furtherranges not explicitly delineated.

The compositions of the present invention can comprise, consistessentially of, or consist of, the essential components as well asoptional ingredients described herein. As used herein, “consistingessentially of” means that the composition or component may includeadditional ingredients, but only if the additional ingredients do notmaterially alter the basic and novel characteristics of the claimedcompositions or methods.

“Apply” or “application” as used in reference to a composition, means toapply or spread the compositions of the present invention ontokeratinous tissue such as the hair.

“Dermatologically acceptable” means that the compositions or componentsdescribed are suitable for use in contact with human skin tissue withoutundue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and thelike.

“Safe and effective amount” means an amount of a compound or compositionsufficient to significantly induce a positive benefit

“Leave-on,” in reference to compositions, means compositions intended tobe applied to and allowed to remain on the keratinous tissue. Theseleave-on compositions are to be distinguished from compositions whichare applied to the hair and subsequently (in a few minutes or less)removed either by washing, rinsing, wiping, or the like. Leave-oncompositions exclude rinse-off applications such as shampoos, rinse-offconditioners, facial cleansers, hand cleansers, body wash, or bodycleansers.

“Log P” means octanol-water partition coefficient and is a physicalproperty that describes a chemical's lipophilic and hydrophophiliccharacteristics. Log P is the logarithm of the ratio of a chemical'sconcentration in the octanol phase to its concentration in the aqueousphase of a two-phase system at equilibrium. The partition coefficient isa ratio of concentrations of un-ionized compound between the twosolutions. Log P=Log 10 (partition coefficient). Partitioncoefficient=[organic]/[aqueous], where [organic] is the concentration ofthe compound of interest in the organic solvent (e.g., octanol), and[aqueous] is the concentration of the compound of interest in the waterphase.

“Soluble” means at least about 0.1 g of solute dissolves in 100 ml ofsolvent, at 25° C. and 1 atm of pressure.

The term “substantially free from” or “substantially free of” as usedherein means less than about 1%, or less than about 0.8%, or less thanabout 0.5%, or less than about 0.3%, or about 0%, by total weight of thecomposition.

“Hair,” as used herein, means mammalian hair including scalp hair,facial hair and body hair, particularly on hair on the human head andscalp.

“Cosmetically acceptable,” as used herein, means that the compositions,formulations or components described are suitable for use in contactwith human keratinous tissue without undue toxicity, incompatibility,instability, allergic response, and the like. All compositions describedherein which have the purpose of being directly applied to keratinoustissue are limited to those being cosmetically acceptable.

“Derivatives,” as used herein, includes but is not limited to, amide,ether, ester, amino, carboxyl, acetyl, acid, salt and/or alcoholderivatives of a given compound.

“Polymer,” as used herein, means a chemical formed from thepolymerisation of two or more monomers. The term “polymer” as usedherein shall include all materials made by the polymerisation ofmonomers as well as natural polymers. Polymers made from only one typeof monomer are called homopolymers. Polymers made from two or moredifferent types of monomers are called copolymers. The distribution ofthe different monomers can be calculated statistically orblock-wise—both possibilities are suitable for the present invention.Except if stated otherwise, the term “polymer” used herein includes anytype of polymer including homopolymers and copolymers.

“Volatile,” as used herein, means those materials that are liquid underambient conditions and which have a measurable vapor pressure at 25° C.Specifically the material have a boiling point at 1 atm of about 260° C.or less, preferably about 200° C. or less, more preferably about 150° C.or less and most preferably 100° C. or less.

“Lipid” as used herein, is a biological molecule which is insoluble inwater while being soluble in fat and non-polar organic solvent. Ittypical contains either a long hydrocarbon chain or multiple linkedaromatic rings. Long hydrocarbon chain can have six or more carbonatoms. “Lipid Enhancing Agent” is a material which further improves uponthe hair fiber benefit provided by the lipid such as decreased combing.

Without being bound by theory, the improvement in fiber properties isachieved by the penetration of lipids from the hair care compositioninto the hair and incorporation into the lipid layers, such as theCuticle Membrane Complex or the Cortex Membrane Complex. The lipidenhancing agent may contribute to more effective incorporation of theselipids into the lipid layer.

Lipids make up the cuticle membrane complex and cortex membrane complex(CMC) of the hair, which is the structural component that holds the hairproteins together. Therefore it stands that loss of lipids results inloss or weakening of the CMC and degradation of the hair structure. Thehair care composition described herein recognizes that the impact of theloss of lipids leads to more moisture uptake in the hair at highhumidity resulting in hair frizz. In addition, consumers can perceivethat tip hair, which contains low levels of lipids (compared to roothair), is more damaged. It has been demonstrated that the level of hairlipids decreases upon age and insults, i.e. UV, color, washing and, inturn, this is also perceived as damage. It is likely that loss oflipids, which alters the arrangement of CMC, also impacts surface hairproperties and hair shine.

It has been found that the combination of oleic acid and glycerylmonooleate in conditioner applications (in ratios of Oleic acid:GMO ofabout 1:1 to about 10:1, alternatively from about 1:1 to about 5:1,alternatively from about 2:1 to about 3:1) shows a synergistic effectcompared to individual components at the same concentration, as seen inFIG. 1. In an embodiment the conditioner is a dry conditioner. It isperceived that GMO contributes to higher penetration of oleic acid intothe hair fiber. It has also been found that other compounds, such asfatty acid monoesters of a polyol and saturated fatty alcohols can alsobe used as penetration enhancing materials. Thus, the hair carecompositions described herein use unique blends of (a) unsaturated fattyacids (or unsaturated fatty alcohols) and (b) lipid enhancing agents.Lipid enhancing agents can enhance the benefit provided by the lipidmaterial to the hair fiber and enabling improved softness andcombability.

Lipid

The hair care composition described herein may contain one or more of anunsaturated fatty material wherein the molecule of said unsaturatedfatty material comprises a linear or branched carbon chain with 8 to 22carbon atoms, and one carbon-carbon double bond in a position of thesaid carbon chain between position C3 and position omega for theunsaturated fatty acid and between position C2 and position omega forthe unsaturated fatty alcohol, and wherein the Log P of said unsaturatedfatty material is less than 8, alternatively less than 7.5,alternatively less than 7.

The lipid may be present in a range from about 0.01% to 20%,alternatively in the range from about 0.05% to about 5%, alternativelyin the range of from about 0.1% to about 2.5%, alternatively in therange of from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, by weight of the hair carecomposition.

Nonlimiting examples of an unsaturated fatty material include:i. an unsaturated fatty acid, non-limiting examples include myristoleicacid, palmitoleic acid, sapienic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid,vaccenic acid, and nervonic acid. In an embodiment, the unsaturatedfatty acid is oleic acid.ii. an unsaturated fatty alcohol, non-limiting examples includepetroselenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palmitoleylalcohol, vaccenyl alcohol, and Eicos-11-en-1-ol.

Lipid Enhancing Agent

The hair care composition described herein may contain one or more of alipid enhancing agent.

The lipid enhancing agent may be present in the range of about 0.01% toabout 10%, alternatively from about 0.01% to about 5%, alternativelyfrom about 0.1% to about 2.5%, and alternatively from about 0.1% toabout 0.5%, by weight of the hair care composition.

Nonlimiting examples of lipid enhancing agents include:i. a fatty acid monoester of a polyol wherein the molecule of the fattyacid component of such monoester contains a linear or branched carbonchain with 10 to 22 carbon atoms and wherein the fatty acid monoester ofa polyol has a log P of less than 8, alternatively less than 7.5,alternatively less than 7, non-limiting examples include glycerylmonooleate, glycerol palmitoleate, 1-stearoyl-rac-glycerol,2-oleoylglycerol, glycerol monoisostearate, ethylene glycol, monooleate.In an embodiment, the fatty acid monoester of the polyol is glycerylmonooleate.ii. a saturated fatty alcohol wherein the molecule of the fatty alcoholcontains a linear or branched carbon chain with 8 to 22 carbon atoms,non-limiting examples include 1-Octanol (capryl alcohol), pelargonicalcohol (1-nonanol), 1-Decanol (decyl alcohol, capric alcohol), Undecylalcohol (1-undecanol, undecanol, Hendecanol), Lauryl alcohol (Dodecanol,1-dodecanol), Tridecyl alcohol (1-tridecanol, tridecanol,isotridecanol), Myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), Pentadecyl alcohol(1-pentadecanol, pentadecanol), cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol),Heptadecyl alcohol (1-n-heptadecanol, heptadecanol), stearyl alcohol(1-octadecanol), Nonadecyl alcohol (1-nonadecanol), arachidyl alcohol(1-eicosanol), Heneicosyl alcohol (1-heneicosanol), behenyl alcohol(1-docosanol).iii. an ester of a saturated fatty alcohol wherein the molecule of saidester contains 10 to 44 total carbon atoms, non-limiting examplesinclude 2-ethylhexanol, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyl-1-decanol.

In an embodiment, the unsaturated fatty acid is oleic acid and the fattyacid monoester of the polyol is glyceryl monooleate.

Compressed Propellant

The hair care composition described herein may comprise from about 25%to about 70%, alternatively from about 40% to about 60%, alternativelyfrom about 50% to about 60%, by weight of the hair care composition.

The propellant may comprise one or more volatile materials, which in agaseous state, may carry the other components of the concentrated haircare composition in particulate or droplet form. The propellant may havea boiling point within the range of from about −45° C. to about 5° C.The propellant may be liquefied when packaged in convention aerosolcontainers under pressure. The rapid boiling of the propellant uponleaving the aerosol foam dispenser may aid in the atomization of theother components of the hair care composition.

Aerosol propellants which may be employed in the hair care compositionmay include the chemically-inert hydrocarbons such as propane, n-butane,isobutane, cyclopropane, and mixtures thereof, as well as halogenatedhydrocarbons such as dichlorodifluoromethane,1,1-dichloro-1,1,2,2-tetrafluoroethane,1-chloro-1,1-difluoro-2,2-trifluoroethane,1-chloro-1,1-difluoroethylene, 1,1-difluoroethane, dimethyl ether,monochlorodifluoromethane, trans-1,3,3,3-tetrafluoropropene, andmixtures thereof. The propellant may comprise hydrocarbons such asisobutane, propane, and butane these materials may be used for their lowozone reactivity and may be used as individual components where theirvapor pressures at 21.1° C. range from about 1.17 Bar to about 7.45 Bar,alternatively from about 1.17 Bar to about 4.83 Bar, and alternativelyfrom about 2.14 Bar to about 3.79 Bar.

Non-Aqueous Volatile Solvent

The hair care compositions described herein may include a non-aqueousvolatile solvent or a mixture of non-aqueous volatile solvents. In anembodiment, the hair care composition comprises a propellant and thehair care composition comprises from about 15% to about 75%,alternatively from about 25% to about 60%, alternatively from about 30%to about 50% of a non-aqueous volatile solvent, by weight of the haircare composition. In an embodiment, the hair care composition does notcomprise a propellant and the hair care composition comprises from about40% to about 99.8%, alternatively from about 50% to about 98%,alternatively from about 75% to about 90% of a non-aqueous volatilesolvent, by weight of the hair care composition.

The non-aqueous volatile solvents useful herein may be relativelyodorless and safe for use on human skin. Suitable volatile solvents mayinclude C₁-C₄ alcohols and mixtures thereof. For example, ethanol may beused as the non-aqueous volatile solvent. Some other non-limitingexamples of non-aqueous volatile solvents include methanol, propanol,isopropanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.

Hydrophobically Modified Tapioca Starch

The hair care composition may comprise from about 0.1% to about 10%particulate tapioca starch, alternatively from about 0.1% to about 5%particulate tapioca starch, and alternatively from about 0.5% to about3% particulate tapioca starch, by weight of the hair care composition.

The particulate tapioca starch may be selected from the group consistingof hydrophobically modified particulate tapioca starch, hydrophobicallyunmodified particulate tapioca starch, and combinations thereof. Theratio of hydrophobically modified particulate tapioca starch tounmodified particulate tapioca starch may be 2:1 or greater.

Hydrophobically modified particulate tapioca starches may be made by avariety of methods, including those discussed in U.S. Pat. Nos.7,375,214, 7,799,909, 6,037,466, 2,852,404, 5,672,699, and 5,776,476.

Modified tapioca particulate starch may be an organically modifiedparticulate tapioca starch or a silicone grafted particulate tapiocastarch. Silicone grafted particulate tapioca starch may be purchasedunder the trade name Dry Flo TS and under the INCI name Tapioca StarchPolymethylsilsesquioxane. Silicone modified particulate tapioca starchmay be produced by a reaction of methyl sodium siliconate(polymethylsilsesquioxane) and tapioca starch. Particulate tapiocastarch may be sourced from the Cassava root by standard means know inthe art. One example of a commercially available silicone modifiedparticulate tapioca starch is CAS no. 68989-12-8.

Water

In an embodiment, the hair conditioning composition comprises from about0.1% to about 10% water, alternatively less than 0.1% water, alternativeabout 0% water, by weight of the hair care composition.

pH of Compositions

In an embodiment, the pH of the hair care composition described hereinis in the range of about 3 to about 9, and alternatively from about 4 toabout 6.

Cationic Surfactant System

The hair care composition described herein can comprise a cationicsurfactant system. The cationic surfactant system can be one cationicsurfactant or a mixture of two or more cationic surfactants. Preferably,the cationic surfactant system is selected from: mono-long alkylquaternized ammonium salt; a combination of mono-long alkyl quaternizedammonium salt and di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt; mono-longalkyl amidoamine salt; a combination of mono-long alkyl amidoamine saltand di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt, a combination of mono-longalkyl amindoamine salt and mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt

The cationic surfactant system can be included in the hair carecomposition at a level by weight of from about 0.1% to about 10%,alternatively from about 0.5% to about 8%, alternatively from about 0.8%to about 5%, and alternatively from about 1.0% to about 4%.

Mono-Long Alkyl Quaternized Ammonium Salt

The monoalkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic surfactants that can beuseful herein are those having one long alkyl chain which has from 12 to30 carbon atoms, alternatively from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, andalternatively C18-22 alkyl group. The remaining groups attached tonitrogen can be independently selected from an alkyl group of from 1 toabout 4 carbon atoms or an alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido,hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 4 carbon atoms.

Mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein can be thosehaving the formula (I):

wherein one of R⁷⁵, R⁷⁶, R⁷⁷ and R⁷⁸ is selected from an alkyl group offrom 12 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene,alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 30carbon atoms; the remainder of R⁷⁵, R⁷⁶, R⁷⁷ and R⁷⁸ are independentlyselected from an alkyl group of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms or analkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylarylgroup having up to about 4 carbon atoms; and X⁻ is a salt-forming anionsuch as those selected from halogen, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate,citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate,alkylsulfate, and alkyl sulfonate radicals. The alkyl groups cancontain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether and/or esterlinkages, and other groups such as amino groups. The longer chain alkylgroups, e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated orunsaturated. Preferably, one of R⁷⁵, R⁷⁶, R⁷⁷ and R⁷⁸ is selected froman alkyl group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to24 carbon atoms, still more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, evenmore preferably 22 carbon atoms; the remainder of R⁷⁵, R⁷⁶, R⁷⁷ and R⁷⁸are independently selected from CH₃, C₂H₅, C₂H₄OH, and mixtures thereof;and X is selected from the group consisting of Cl, Br, CH₃OSO₃,C₂H₅OSO₃, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of such mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium saltcationic surfactants include: behenyl trimethyl ammonium salt; stearyltrimethyl ammonium salt; cetyl trimethyl ammonium salt; and hydrogenatedtallow alkyl trimethyl ammonium salt.

Mono-Long Alkyl Amidoamine Salt

Mono-long alkyl amines are also suitable as cationic surfactants.Primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are useful. Particularlyuseful are tertiary amido amines having an alkyl group of from about 12to about 22 carbons. Exemplary tertiary amido amines include:stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine,stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine,palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine,palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine,behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine,behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine,arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine,arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine,diethylaminoethylstearamide. Useful amines in the present invention aredisclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,275,055, Nachtigal, et al. These amines canalso be used in combination with acids such as £-glutamic acid, lacticacid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaricacid, tartaric acid, citric acid, £-glutamic hydrochloride, maleic acid,and mixtures thereof; more preferably £-glutamic acid, lactic acid,citric acid. The amines herein are preferably partially neutralized withany of the acids at a molar ratio of the amine to the acid of from about1:0.3 to about 1:2, more preferably from about 1:0.4 to about 1:1.

Di-Long Alkyl Quaternized Ammonium Salt

Di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt is preferably combined with amono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt or mono-long alkyl amidoaminesalt. It is believed that such combination can provide easy-to-rinsefeel, compared to single use of a monoalkyl quaternized ammonium salt ormono-long alkyl amidoamine salt. In such combination with a mono-longalkyl quaternized ammonium salt or mono-long alkyl amidoamine salt, thedi-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts are used at a level such thatthe wt % of the dialkyl quaternized ammonium salt in the cationicsurfactant system is in the range of preferably from about 10% to about50%, more preferably from about 30% to about 45%.

The dialkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic surfactants useful hereinare those having two long alkyl chains having 12-30 carbon atoms,preferably 16-24 carbon atoms, more preferably 18-22 carbon atoms. Theremaining groups attached to nitrogen are independently selected from analkyl group of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms or an alkoxy,polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl grouphaving up to about 4 carbon atoms.

Di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are those havingthe formula (II):

wherein two of R⁷⁵, R⁷⁶, R⁷⁷ and R⁷⁸ is selected from an alkyl group offrom 12 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene,alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 30carbon atoms; the remainder of R⁷⁵, R⁷⁶, R⁷⁷ and R⁷⁸ are independentlyselected from an alkyl group of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms or analkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylarylgroup having up to about 4 carbon atoms; and X⁻ is a salt-forming anionsuch as those selected from halogen, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate,citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate,alkylsulfate, and alkyl sulfonate radicals. The alkyl groups cancontain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether and/or esterlinkages, and other groups such as amino groups. The longer chain alkylgroups, e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated orunsaturated. Preferably, one of R⁷⁵, R⁷⁶, R⁷⁷ and R⁷⁸ is selected froman alkyl group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to24 carbon atoms, still more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, evenmore preferably 22 carbon atoms; the remainder of R⁷⁵, R⁷⁶, R⁷⁷ and R⁷⁸are independently selected from CH₃, C₂H₅, C₂H₄OH, and mixtures thereof;and X is selected from the group consisting of Cl, Br, CH₃OSO₃,C₂H₅OSO₃, and mixtures thereof. Such dialkyl quaternized ammonium saltcationic surfactants include, for example, dialkyl (14-18) dimethylammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride,dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyldimethyl ammonium chloride, and dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. Suchdialkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic surfactants also include, forexample, asymmetric dialkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationicsurfactants.

Additional Components Silicone Conditioning Agent

The compositions of the present invention may contain one or moresilicone conditioning agents. Examples of the silicones includedimethicones, dimethiconols, cyclic silicones, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and modified silicones with various functional groups suchas amino groups, quaternary ammonium salt groups, aliphatic groups,alcohol groups, carboxylic acid groups, ether groups, epoxy groups,sugar or polysaccharide groups, fluorine-modified alkyl groups, alkoxygroups, or combinations of such groups. Such silicones may be soluble orinsoluble in the aqueous (or non-aqueous) product carrier. In the caseof insoluble liquid silicones, the polymer can be in an emulsified formwith droplet size of about 10 nm to about 30 micrometers.

In an embodiment, the hair care composition may comprise from about0.01% to about 50% silicone, alternatively from about 0.5% to about 30%silicone, alternatively from about 1% to about 25% silicone, by weightof the hair care composition.

Nonionic Polymers

The hair care compositions described herein may also further comprise anonionic polymer. According to an embodiment, the conditioning agent foruse in the hair care composition of the present invention may include apolyalkylene glycol polymer. For example, polyalkylene glycols having amolecular weight of more than about 1000 are useful herein. Useful arethose having the following general formula (VIII):

wherein R¹¹ is selected from the group consisting of H, methyl, andmixtures thereof; and v is the number of ethoxy units. The polyalkyleneglycols, such as polyethylene glycols, can be included in the hair carecompositions of the present invention at a level of from about 0.001 wt.% to about 10 wt. %. In an embodiment, the polyethylene glycol ispresent in an amount up to about 5 wt. % based on the weight of thecomposition. Polyethylene glycol polymers useful herein are PEG-2M (alsoknown as Polyox WSR® N-10, which is available from Union Carbide and asPEG-2,000); PEG-5M (also known as Polyox WSR® N-35 and Polyox WSR® N-80,available from Union Carbide and as PEG-5,000 and Polyethylene Glycol300,000); PEG-7M (also known as Polyox WSR® N-750 available from UnionCarbide); PEG-9M (also known as Polyox WSR® N-3333 available from UnionCarbide); and PEG-14 M (also known as Polyox WSR® N-3000 available fromUnion Carbide).

Organic Conditioning Materials

The hair care compositions described herein may also comprise at leastone organic conditioning material such as oil or wax, either alone or incombination with other conditioning agents, such as the siliconesdescribed above. The organic material can be non-polymeric, oligomericor polymeric. It may be in the form of oil or wax and may be added inthe formulation neat or in a pre-emulsified form. Some non-limitingexamples of organic conditioning materials include, but are not limitedto: i) hydrocarbon oils; ii) polyolefins, iii) fatty esters, iv)fluorinated conditioning compounds, v) alkyl glucosides and alkylglucoside derivatives; vi) quaternary ammonium compounds; and mixturesthereof.

Rheology Modifier/Suspending Agents

In an embodiment, the hair care compositions described herein maycomprise a rheology modifier. The rheology modifier increases thesubstantivity and stability of the composition, improve feel andconsumer's use experience (e.g. non-dripping, spreadability, etc). Anysuitable rheology modifier can be used. In an embodiment, the hair carecomposition may comprise from about 0.05% to about 10% of a rheologymodifier, in a further embodiment, from about 0.1% to about 10% of arheology modifier, in yet a further embodiment, from about 0.5% to about2% of a rheology modifier, in a further embodiment, from about 0.7% toabout 2% of a rheology modifier, and in a further embodiment from about1% to about 1.5% of a rheology modifier. In an embodiment, the rheologymodifier may be a polyacrylamide thickener. In an embodiment, therheology modifier may be a polymeric rheology modifier.

In an embodiment, the hair care compositions described herein maycomprise rheology modifiers that are homopolymers based on acrylic acid,methacrylic acid or other related derivatives, non-limiting examplesinclude polyacrylate, polymethacrylate, polyethylacrylate, andpolyacrylamide.

In another embodiment, the rheology modifiers may be alkali swellableand hydrophobically-modified alkali swellable acrylic copolymers ormethacrylate copolymers non-limiting examples include acrylicacid/acrylonitrogen copolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 itaconatecopolymer, acrylates/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer,acrylates/aminoacrylates copolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylatecopolymer, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer,acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer,acrylates/vinylneodecanoate crosspolymer, and acrylates/C10-C30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer.

In a further embodiment, the rheology modifiers may be crosslinkedacrylic polymers, a non-limiting example includes carbomers.

In a further embodiment, the rheology modifiers may be alginicacid-based materials; non-limiting examples include sodium alginate, andalginic acid propylene glycol esters.

In a further embodiment, the rheology modifier may be an associativepolymeric thickeners, non-limiting examples include: Hydrophobicallymodified cellulose derivatives; Hydrophobically modified alkoxylatedurethane polymers, nonlimiting example include PEG-150/decylalcohol/SMDI copolymer, PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer,polyurethane-39; Hydrophobically modified, alkali swellable emulsions,non-limiting examples include hydrophobically modified polyacrylates,hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acids, and hydrophobically modifiedpolyacrylamides; hydrophobically modified polyethers wherein thesematerials may have a hydrophobe that can be selected from cetyl,stearyl, oleayl, and combinations thereof, and a hydrophilic portion ofrepeating ethylene oxide groups with repeat units from 10-300, inanother embodiment from 30-200, in a further embodiment from 40-150.Non-limiting examples of this class include PEG-120-methylglucosedioleate, PEG-(40 or 60) sorbitan tetraoleate, PEG-150 pentaerythrityltetrastearate, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-150 distearate.

In a further embodiment, the rheology modifier may be cellulose andderivatives; nonlimiting examples include microcrystalline cellulose,carboxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose,hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, nitrocellulose, cellulose sulfate, cellulose powder, and hydrophobicallymodified celluloses.

In an embodiment, the rheology modifier may be a guar and guarderivatives; nonlimiting examples include hydroxypropyl guar, andhydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride.

In an embodiment, the rheology modifier may be polyethylene oxide,polypropylene oxide, and POE-PPO copolymers.

In an embodiment, the rheology modifier may be polyvinylpyrrolidone,crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone and derivatives. In a furtherembodiment, the rheology modifier may be polyvinyalcohol andderivatives.

In a further embodiment, the rheology modifier may be polyethyleneimineand derivatives.

In another embodiment, the rheology modifier may be silicas; nonlimitingexamples include fumed silica, precipitated silica, and silicone-surfacetreated silica.

In an embodiment, the rheology modifier may be water-swellable claysnon-limiting examples include laponite, bentolite, montmorilonite,smectite, and hectonite.

In an embodiment, the rheology modifier may be gums nonlimiting examplesinclude xanthan gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, Arabia gum,tragacanth, galactan, carob gum, karaya gum, and locust bean gum.

In a further embodiment, the rheology modifier may be, dibenzylidenesorbitol, karaggenan, pectin, agar, quince seed (Cydonia oblonga Mill),starch (from rice, corn, potato, wheat, etc), starch-derivatives (e.g.carboxymethyl starch, methylhydroxypropyl starch), algae extracts,dextran, succinoglucan, and pulleran.

Non-limiting examples of rheology modifiers include acrylamide/ammoniumacrylate copolymer (and)polyisobutene (and) polysorbate 20,acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl tauratecopolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80, acrylates copolymer;acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/C10-C30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer,ammonium polyacrylate/Isohexadecane/PEG-40 castor oil, C12-16 alkylPEG-2 hydroxypropylhydroxyethyl ethylcellulose (HM-EHEC), carbomer,crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), dibenzylidene sorbitol,hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose (EHEC), hydroxypropyl methylcellulose(HPMC), hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC), hydroxypropylcellulose(HPC), methylcellulose (MC), methylhydroxyethyl cellulose (MEHEC),PEG-150/decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer, PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDIcopolymer, polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7; polyacrylate13/polyisobutene/polysorbate 20; polyacrylate crosspolymer-6,polyamide-3; polyquaternium-37 (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and)trideceth-6, polyurethane-39, sodiumacrylate/acryloyldimethyltaurate/dimethylacrylamide, crosspolymer (and)isohexadecane (and) polysorbate 60; sodium polyacrylate. Exemplarycommercially-available rheology modifiers include ACULYN™ 28, Klucel™ MCS, Klucel™ H CS, Klucel™ G CS, SYLVACLEAR™ AF1900V, SYLVACLEAR™PA1200V, Benecel™ E10M, Benecel™ K35M, Optasense™ RMC70, ACULYN™33,ACULYN™46, ACULYN™22, ACULYN™44, Carbopol Ultrez™ 20, Carbopol Ultrez™21, Carbopol Ultrez™ 10, Carbopol Ulterez™ 30, Carbopol™ 1342, Carbopol™934, Carbopol™ 940, Carbopol™ 950, Carbopol™ 980, and Carbopol™ 981,Acrysol™ 22, Sepigel™ 305, Simulgel™600, Sepimax Zen, and combinationsthereof.

The hair care compositions described herein may comprise one or morenon-polar solvents. Non-limiting examples of non-polar solvents areisoparaffin, mineral oil, silicone oil, natural oils such as olive oil,argan oil, jojoba oil, passion fruit oil.

Other Optional Ingredients

The hair care compositions described herein may also comprise any othersuitable optional ingredients as desired. For example, the hair carecompositions may comprise other active or inactive ingredients.

In an embodiment, a scalp health active may be added to provide scalpbenefits. This group of materials is varied and provides a wide range ofbenefits including anti-dandruff, anti-fungal, anti-microbial,moisturization, barrier improvement, and anti-oxidant, anti-itch, andsensates. Such health actives include but are not limited to: zincpyrithione, climbazole, octopirox, vitamin E and F, salicylic acid,glycols, glycolic acid, PCA, PEGs, erythritol, glycerin, lactates,hyaluronates, allantoin and other ureas, betaines, sorbitol, glutamates,xylitols, menthol, menthyl lactate, isocyclomone, benzyl alcohol, andnatural extracts/oils including peppermint, spearmint, argan, jojoba andaloe. The compositions may include other common hair ingredients. TheCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Tenth Edition (published by theCosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C.)(2004) (hereinafter “CTFA”), describes a wide variety of nonlimitingmaterials that can be added to the composition herein. Examples of theseingredient classes include, but are not limited to: aesthetic componentssuch as fragrances, pigments, colorings/colorants, essential oils,sensates, etcantifoaming agents, antimicrobial agents, biologicaladditives, buffering agents, bulking agents, chelating agents, chemicaladditives, astringents, biocides, film formers or materials, pHadjusters, reducing agents, sequestrants, and surfactants.

Examples & Data

The following examples and data illustrate the hair care compositionsdescribed herein. The exemplified hair care compositions may be preparedby conventional formulation and mixing techniques. It will beappreciated that other modifications of the formulations and dosages offoam described herein within the skill of those in the shampooformulation art can be undertaken without departing from the spirit andscope of the formulations and dosages of foam described herein. Allparts, percentages, and ratios herein are by weight unless otherwisespecified. Some components may come from suppliers as dilute solutions.The amount stated reflects the weight percent of the active material,unless otherwise specified.

Method for Combing Force for Dry Hair:

A moderately oxidatively-damaged hair switch or physically damagedvirgin hair switch (with weight of 4 gram and length of 8 inches) isplaced in an apparatus containing two combs separated by a verticaldistance of 6 inches. This double combing apparatus is attached to anInstron Model 5564. The switch is combed 5 times with a fine-tooth comband hanged onto the Instron load cell. Then, the hair switch is placedin the double comb apparatus. The Instron pulls the hair vertically at arate of 10 mm/min until the hair switch clears the final comb. The peakforce as the switch passes through the top comb is reported.

FIG. 1 is a measure of force (in gram force—gf) required to combmoderately oxidatively-damaged hair that is treated with anaqueous/ethanol rinse-off formulation containing 2.5% total conditioningagent (lipid+lipid enhancing agent):

A: 0.71% Oleic acid and 1.79% GMO (Oleic acid:GMO=1:2.5)B: 1.25% Oleic acid and 1.25% GMO (Oleic acid:GMO=1:1)C: 1.79% Oleic acid and 0.71% GMO (Oleic acid:GMO=2.5:1)

These measurements are compared with the corresponding measurements fromuntreated moderately oxidatively damaged hair and hair treated withleave on treatment containing 2.5% oleic acid. These measurements arealso compared with moderately oxidatively-damaged hair treated withleave on treatment containing 2.5% glyceryl monoleate. It can be seenthat hair treated with treatments containing lipid plus lipid enhancingagent at a ratio of 1:1 and 2.5:1 show better combing versus untreatedmoderately oxidatively-damaged hair and treatments containing only lipid(oleic acid) or only lipid enhancing agent (glyceryl monooleate). Thus,the combination of oleic acid and glyceryl monooleate shows asynergistic effect on combability.

TABLE 1 Combing Treatments Force (gf) Untreated Moderately OxidativelyDamaged Hair 217 Oleic Alone 161 Glyceryl monooleate 157 1:2.5 OleicAcid:Glyceryl monooleate 330 1:1 Oleic acid:Glyceryl monooleate 1322.5:1 Oleic acid:Glyceryl monooleate 93

FIG. 2 shows the combing forced (measured in gram force—gf) forphysically damaged virgin hair which is treated with an aqueous/ethanolleave-on formulations containing 2.5% total conditioning agent(lipid+lipid enhancing agent):

1.79% Oleic acid and 0.71% GMO (Oleic acid:GMO=2.5:1)0.71% Palmitoleic acid and 1.79% GMO (Palmitoleic acid:GMO=1:2.5)1.97% Palmitoleic acid and 0.71% GMO (Palmitoleic acid:GMO=2.5:1)0.71% Oleyl alcohol and 1.79% GMO (Palmitoleic acid:GMO=1:2.5)1.97% Oleyl alcohol and 0.71% GMO (Palmitoleic acid:GMO=2.5:1)

These measurements are compared with the corresponding measurements fromuntreated physically damaged virgin hair and hair treated with leave ontreatment containing 2.5% oleic acid. These measurements are alsocompared with physically damaged virgin hair treated with leave ontreatment containing 2.5% glyceryl monoleate.

It can be seen that hair treated with treatments containing lipid pluslipid enhancing agent at a ratio of 2.5:1 show better combing versusuntreated physically damaged virgin hair and treatments containing onlylipid (palmitoleic acid, oleic acid or oleyl alcohol) or only lipidenhancing agent (glyceryl monooleate).

TABLE 2 Combing Treatments Force (gf) GMO 268 OL 246 Physically DamagedVirgin Hair 225 1:2.5 PA/GMO 176 1:2.5 OL/GMO 142 OA 128 PA 76 2.5:1OA/GMO 66 2.5:1 PA/GMO 53 2.5:1 OL/GMO 42

Table 3 below summarizes and corresponds to moderatelyoxidatively-damaged hair treated with leave-on treatment. Materials 1-5performed well in terms of hair combability, whereas materials 6-11shows poor performance. The data shows that optimum efficacy is achievedby materials that have the following characteristics:

a. Log P<8 alternatively less than 7.5, and alternatively less than 7;higher Log P corresponds to increased hydrophobicity (1-7, 10, 11 vs.8,9);b. Material carbon chain length between C10 and C22 (1-5 vs. 8);c. Monounsaturation of the carbon chain (4 vs. 7 and 11).

TABLE 3 Double Size Bonds of in Olefin C Total Material LogP ChainPosition Chain Carbons MW Structure  1 Glyceryl alpha- 6.3 1 Δ9 18 21357 Polyol monooleate monoester  2 Ethyleneglycol 6.9 1 Δ9 18 20 326Polyol monooleate monoester  3 Oleyl Alcohol 7   1 Δ9 18 18 268 Fattyalcohol  4 Oleic acid 7   1 Δ9 18 18 282 Fatty acid  5 Palmitoleic 6.6 1Δ9 16 16 254 Fatty acid Acid  6 Methyl Oleate 8   1 Δ9 18 19 296 Simpleolefin Ester  7 Stearic Acid 8   0 18 18 284 Fatty acid  8 Glyceryl 9  1 Δ9 18 57 885 Triglyceride trioleate olefin ester  9 Erucic acid 9   1Δ13 22 22 339 Fatty acid olefin 10 Propyleneglycol 7.5 1 Δ9 18 18 340Polyol monooleate olefin monoester 11 Linoleic Acid 6.4 2 Δ9, Δ12 18 18280 Fatty acid olefin

Another indication of beneficial effect of the lipid in the hairinterior can be demonstrated by decreased moisture absorption in thehair. This is measured technically by Dynamic Vapor Sorption (DVS)method. Our data demonstrate that there is a good correlation betweenunsaturated lipid content and DVS (see FIG. 3 and Table 4 below). Morespecifically, the higher the unsaturated lipid content, the lower thewater absorption measured.

TABLE 4 Unsaturated Lipid Level versus Moisture Uptake Moisture UptakeUnsaturated Lipid Level (%) μg/g 6.51 1027 6.5 2978 6.39 15490

DVS Measurement:

An amount of 25-30 mg of hair with length of approximately 1 cm isweighed and hold for equilibration at 0% RH for 16 hours. After the16-hour period, the RH is increased to 10% and maintained at this levelfor 6 hours. Then, the RH is increased by 10% after every 6 hoursinterval until it reaches 90% RH. The % water reduction is calculated asfollows:

A=Amount of water absorbed by the hair treated with compositioncontaining the lipid and/or lipid enhancing material.B=Amount of water absorbed by the hair treated with control composition(only carrier) containing no lipid and/or lipid enhancing material

% Water reduction=[(B−A)×100]/B

Leave-on Hair Treatment Using Neat Material

An amount of 0.4 ml of neat oleic acid is thoroughly spread on amoderately oxidatively-damaged hair switch (with weight 4 g and lengthof 8 inches). The treatment is repeated to two additional switches. Thetreated hair switches are allowed to rest for 24 hours under controlledtemperature and relative humidity conditions (27° C. and 50% RH). Afterthis time period, each hair switch is washed with a clarifying shampoo(see shampoo washing protocol below) and allowed to air dry for 24 hoursunder controlled temperature and relative humidity conditions (27° C.and 50% RH). The combing force is measured for each switch and anaverage for the three switches is calculated. The shampoo washing anddrying is repeated for 4 more cycles and the combing force measurementis repeated. The above experiment is repeated replacing the neat oleicacid with neat:

a. Linoleic acidb. Olive oil (a triglyceride ester oil)Combing Force Results for Hair Treated with Neat Materials (DescribedAbove)

Hair treated with monounsaturated fatty acid, such as oleic acid, showbetter combability (lower combing force) than hair treated with fattyacids containing multiple carbon-carbon double bonds, such as linoleicacid (see example 1 versus example 2). In addition, triglycerides offatty acids (olive oil) provide good combability, but the benefit is notdurable over five washes (see example 3 versus examples 1 and 2).

TABLE 5 Ex. Treatment 1 Wash (gf) 5 Washes (gf) 1 Oleic Acid 24 58 2Linoleic Acid 27 96 3 Olive Oil (triglyceride) 57 133

EtOH/H₂O Leave-on Treatments

Single material mixtures: 500 mg of a lipid or a lipid enhancing agentis weighed into a 20 mL vial. 19.5 g of 50/50(v/v) ethanol water mixtureis then added to the vial and capped. The mixture is then agitated for30 seconds.

Shampoo Washing Protocol:

An amount of 0.10 g of clarifying shampoo per gram of hair is spread viaa syringe onto separate hair switch. Each application consists of addingshampoo to the hair, milking for 30 seconds followed by rinsing for 30seconds. Shampoo is then reapplied (0.1 g/g), milked for 30 seconds andrinsed for 30 seconds.Leave-on Treatments with Aqueous/Ethanolic Lipid Compositionsa. Method of Making of Aqueous/Ethanolic Leave-on Treatment CompositionsThe ingredients of each composition in Table 3 are placed in a 200-mLvial and a stopper is placed on the vial. The vial is then agitated ormixed for 30 seconds to a uniform composition.b. Hair Treatment with Aqueous/Ethanolic Leave-on Treatment CompositionsAn amount 0.8 mL of the aqueous/ethanolic compositions of Table 3 areapplied onto a moderately oxidatively-damaged hair switch (with weight 4g and length of 8 inches) and then massaged onto the hair for 60seconds. The same treatment is repeated to two additional switches. Thetreated hair switches are allowed to rest for 24 hours under controlledtemperature and relative humidity conditions (27° C. and 50% RH). Afterthis time period, each hair switch is washed with a clarifying shampoo(see shampoo washing protocol above) and allowed to air dry for 24 hoursunder controlled temperature and relative humidity conditions (27° C.and 50% RH). The combing force is measured for each switch and anaverage for the three switches is calculated. The shampoo washing anddrying is repeated for 4 more cycles and the combing force measurementis repeated.

Aqueous/Ethanolic Leave on Treatment Results

As Table 6 indicates, hair treated with aqueous/ethanolic leave ontreatments containing materials with monounsaturated carbon chains intheir molecule and exhibit Log P less than 8 (such as oleic acid,palmitoleic acid, and oleyl alcohol) show better combability than hairtreated with aqueous/ethanolic leave on treatments containing materialswith monounsaturated carbon chains in their molecule and exhibit Log Phigher than 8 (see examples 1-5 versus examples 8). However, hairtreated with aqueous/ethanolic leave-on treatments with α,β-unsaturatedfatty acids, show inferior combability than hair treated withaqueous/ethanolic leave on treatments containing materials withmonounsaturated carbon chains in their molecule, wherein thecarbon-carbon double bond is not in the a43-position in relation to thecarbonyl functional group (see examples 6 and 7 versus examples 1-5. Inaddition there is a synergistic combing benefit when hair is treatedwith an aqueous/ethanolic leave on treatment containing when oleic acidand glyceryl monooleate in a ratio of 1:1 or 2.5:1 oleic acid toglyceryl monooleate. This treatment shows better combing than treatmentsthat contain only glyceryl monoleate or oleic acid (see example 9 and 10versus examples 1 and 4). A similar synergistic benefit is observed whenhair is treated with other aqueous leave on treatments containingpalmitoleic acid or oleyl alcohol in combination with glyceryl monoleate(see examples 12 versus example 2 and 1; and example 14 versus examples2 and 5).

TABLE 6 Ingredient Ex 1 Ex 2 Ex 3 Ex 4 Ex 5 Ex 6 Ex 7 Ex 8 Ex 9 Ex 10 Ex11 Water 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.7548.75 Ethanol 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.7548.75 48.75 Glycerol alpha-monooleate¹ 2.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.71 1.25 1.79 Palmitoleic Acid² 0.00 2.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Ethylene glycol-monooleate² 0.00 0.00 2.50 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Oleic acid³ 0.00 0.00 0.00 2.50 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 1.79 1.25 0.71 Oleyl Alcohol² 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 2.500.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 2-Heptenoic acid² 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.002.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 2-Hexadecenoic acid² 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Methyl Oleate² 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 DiisopropylAdipate 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Isodecane 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Histidine⁴ 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Niacinamide⁵ 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Caffeine⁶ 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Panthenol⁷ 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 Benzyl Alcohol⁸ 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 Isostearyl Isostearate⁹ 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Combing Force(gf)1 104 124 140 161 201 255 273316 93 132 330 Combing Force(gf)2 Ex 12 Ex 13 Ex 14 Ex 15 Ex 16 Ex 17 Ex18 Ex 19 Ex 20 Ex 21 Ex 22 Water 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.7548.75 48.75 48.75 47.21 47.21 Ethanol 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.7548.75 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.75 48.75 Glycerol alpha-monooleate 0.71 1.790.71 1.79 0.71 2.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.71 1.25 Palmitoleic Acid 1.79 0.710.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 2.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Ethylene glycol-monooleate0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Oleic acid 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 1.79 0.00 0.00 2.50 0.00 1.79 1.25 Oleyl Alcohol 0.000.00 1.79 0.71 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 2.50 0.00 0.00 2-Heptenoic acid 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 2-Hexadecenoic acid0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Methyl Oleate0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00DiisopropylAdipate 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 Isodecane 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00Histidine 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.05 0.05Niacinamide 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.50 0.50Caffeine 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.10 0.10Panthenol 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.89 0.89 BenzylAlcohol 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00Isostearyl Isostearate 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 Combing Force(gf)1 Combing Force(gf)2 53 176 42 142 66 268 76 128246 Ex 23 Ex 24 Ex 25 Ex 26 Ex 27 Ex 28 Ex 29 Ex 30 Ex 31 Ex 32 Ex 33Water 44.64 44.64 68.46 96.67 97.21 94.10 94.64 96.67 97.21 96.67 94.64Ethanol 48.75 48.75 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00Glycerol alpha-monooleate 0.71 1.25 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 Palmitoleic Acid 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 Ethylene glycol-monooleate 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Oleic acid 1.79 1.25 0.00 1.79 1.25 1.79 1.25 1.791.25 1.79 1.25 Oleyl Alcohol 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 2-Heptenoic acid 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 2-Hexadecenoic acid 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Methyl Oleate 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 DiisopropylAdipate 0.00 0.00 25.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Isodecane 0.00 0.00 5.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Histidine 0.01 0.01 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.01 0.01 0.050.05 0.05 0.01 Niacinamide 2.50 2.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 2.50 2.50 0.50 0.500.50 2.50 Caffeine 1.00 1.00 0.10 0.10 0.10 1.00 1.00 0.10 0.10 0.101.00 Panthenol 0.60 0.60 0.89 0.89 0.89 0.60 0.60 0.89 0.89 0.89 0.60Benzyl Alcohol 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.71 1.25 0.71 1.25 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00Isostearyl Isostearate 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.71 1.25 0.711.25 Combing Force(gf)1 Combing Force(gf)2 ¹Monomuls 90-O-18 supplied byBASF ²Supplied by Sigma Aldrich ³Greenolene 6928 supplied by Green Oleo⁴Supplied by Ajinomoto ⁵Supplied by USP: Edison ⁶Supplied by DSMNutritional Products ⁷Supplied by Roche ⁸Supplied by Incos Maastricht BV(Maastricht, NL) ⁹Isostearyl isostearate Crodamol ISIS supplied by Croda

TABLE 7 Aerosol Dry Conditioner Systems Description Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Ex. 8 Ex. 9 Alcohol 42.58% 25.00% 25.00% 25.00%25.00% 50.00% 56.11% 46.88% 28.29% Dry Flo Tapioca 0.50% 2.00%Cyclopentasiloxane 0.50% 5.63% 5.63% 5.63% 1.67% 10.00% 5.00%Hexamethyldisloxane 10.88% 10.42% 8.17% 4.00% 15.00% 10.00% 15.00%Dimethicone 2.25% 2.25% 4.50% 0.50% 6.75% 1.50% 1.00% Phenyl 0.50% 1.00%Trimethicone Cetrimonium 0.20% 0.20% 0.20% 0.20% 0.20% 0.10% 0.40% 0.30%Chloride Oleic Acid 0.10% 0.32% 0.64% 0.64% 0.10% 0.96% 0.10% 0.64%0.32% Glyceryl Monoleate 0.04% 0.14% 0.28% 0.28% 0.04% 0.42% 0.04% 0.28%0.14% (GMO) Caffeine 0.05% 0.05% 0.05% 0.05% Niacinamide 0.50% 0.50%0.50% 0.50% Histidine 0.01% 0.01% 0.01% 0.01% Perfume 0.02% 0.02% 0.02%0.02% 0.16% 0.10% 0.35% 0.40% 0.25% Dimethyl Ether 30.00%Hydrofluorocarbon 50.00% 152a Hydrocarbon 55.00% 55.00% 55.00% 55.00%70.00% 25.00% 40.00% Propellant

Order of Addition:

-   -   Concentrate: Alcohol, GMO, Oleic Acid, Hexamethyldisiloxane,        Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetrimonium Chloride, Perfume,        minors    -   Finished Product: 45% Concentrate, 55% Propellant

The GMO is added directly after the alcohol to ensure that it goes intosolution. There are no critical transformations with the concentrateformula.

In an embodiment, a method of hair treatment may be provided using acomposition comprising a lipid and a lipid enhancing agent wherein thetreated hair exhibits reduced combing force (gf) compared to untreatedhair. The methods of hair treatment may be in the form of a leave ontreatment.

It is further noted that terms like “alternatively,” “usually”,“generally,” “commonly,” and “typically” are not utilized herein tolimit the scope of the claimed invention or to imply that certainfeatures are critical, essential, or even important to the structure orfunction of the claimed invention. Rather, these terms are merelyintended to highlight alternative or additional features that may or maynot be utilized in a particular embodiment of the present invention.

For the purposes of describing and defining the present invention it isadditionally noted that the term “substantially” is utilized herein torepresent the inherent degree of uncertainty that may be attributed toany quantitative comparison, value, measurement, or otherrepresentation. The term “substantially” is also utilized herein torepresent the degree by which a quantitative representation may varyfrom a stated reference without resulting in a change in the basicfunction of the subject matter at issue.

Having described the invention in detail and by reference to specificembodiments thereof, it will be apparent that modifications andvariations are possible without departing from the scope of theinvention defined in the appended claims. More specifically, althoughsome aspects of the present invention are identified herein as preferredor particularly advantageous, it is contemplated that the presentinvention is not necessarily limited to these preferred aspects of theinvention.

The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood asbeing strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead,unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean boththe recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding thatvalue. For example, a dimension disclosed as “40 mm” is intended to mean“about 40 mm.”

Every document cited herein, including any cross referenced or relatedpatent or application and any patent application or patent to which thisapplication claims priority or benefit thereof, is hereby incorporatedherein by reference in its entirety unless expressly excluded orotherwise limited. The citation of any document is not an admission thatit is prior art with respect to any invention disclosed or claimedherein or that it alone, or in any combination with any other referenceor references, teaches, suggests or discloses any such invention.Further, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in thisdocument conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in adocument incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assignedto that term in this document shall govern.

While particular embodiments of the present invention have beenillustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in theart that various other changes and modifications can be made withoutdeparting from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is thereforeintended to cover in the appended claims all such changes andmodifications that are within the scope of this invention.

What is claimed is:
 1. A method to improve softness of hair comprising:a. providing an aerosol container containing an aerosol dry conditionersystem comprising: i. from about 25% to about 70% liquefied propellant;ii. from about 0.1% to about 0.96% oleic acid; iii. from about 0.01% toabout 0.14% glycerol monooleate; iv. from about 10 wt. % to about 75 wt.% non-aqueous volatile solvent; wherein a weight ratio of oleic acid toglycerol monooleate is from about 1:1 to about 2.5:1; b. applying theleave-on dry conditioner composition to the hair tip comprising a lipidlayer; wherein the dry conditioner composition comprises: c. allowingthe leave-on dry conditioner composition to remain on the hair so theglycerol monooleate enhances penetration of the oleic acid into the hairand the oleic acid is incorporated into the lipid layer therebyimproving hair softness.
 2. The method of claim 1, wherein aerosol dryconditioner system comprises from about 0.1% to about 0.32% oleic acid.3. The method of claim 1, wherein the aerosol dry conditioner systemcomprises from about 0.04% to about 0.14% glycerol monooleate.
 4. Themethod of claim 1, wherein the aerosol dry conditioner system furthercomprises from about 15% to about 50% of a silicone selected fromhexamethyldisiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone fluids, phenyltrimethicone, and mixtures thereof.
 5. The method of claim 1, whereinthe aerosol dry conditioner system further comprises one or morematerials selected from niacinamide, caffeine, histidine, and mixturesthereof.
 6. The method of claim 1, wherein the aerosol dry conditionersystem further comprises a cationic surfactant system.
 7. The method ofclaim 1, wherein the aerosol dry conditioner system comprises less than0.1 wt. % water.
 8. The method of claim 1, wherein the liquefiedpropellant wherein is selected from hydrocarbon blends, dimethyl ethers,hydrofluorocarbon 152a, and mixtures thereof.
 9. The method of claim 1,wherein the non-aqueous volatile solvent is ethanol.
 10. A method toimprove softness of hair comprising: a. providing an aerosol containercontaining an aerosol dry conditioner system comprising: i. from about25% to about 70% liquefied propellant; ii. from about 0.1% to about0.96% oleic acid; iii. from about 0.01% to about 0.14% glycerolmonooleate; iv. from about 10 wt. % to about 75 wt. % ethanol; v. from0.01% to about 50% of a silicone; vi. a perfume; wherein a weight ratioof oleic acid to glycerol monooleate is from about 1:1 to about 5:1; b.applying the leave-on dry conditioner composition to the hair tipcomprising a lipid layer; wherein the dry conditioner compositioncomprises: c. allowing the leave-on dry conditioner composition toremain on the hair so the glycerol monooleate enhances penetration ofthe oleic acid into the hair and the oleic acid is incorporated into thelipid layer thereby improving hair softness.
 11. The method of claim 10,wherein the weight ratio of oleic acid to glycerol monooleate is fromabout 2:1 to about 3:1.
 12. The method of claim 10, wherein the weightratio of oleic acid to glycerol monooleate is from about 1:1 to about2.5:1;
 13. The method of claim 10, wherein the silicone compriseshexamethyldisiloxane.
 14. The method of claim 10, wherein the siliconefurther comprises dimethicone.
 15. The method of claim 10, wherein theaerosol dry conditioner system comprises about 15 wt. % to about 50 wt.% silicone.
 16. The method of claim 10, wherein the active ingredientsconsist of oleic acid, glycerol monooleate, and silicone.
 17. The methodof claim 10, wherein the propellant is selected from propane, n-butane,isobutane, and mixtures thereof.